Lead the Way.

Last night I had the privilege of attending the premier of a new climbing film, SPRAY. Debuting close to home, the evening was enhanced by the show of the local climbing community – from area nonprofits, advocacy groups, supporting corporations, the local climbing gyms, and the climbers themselves.

Though I thoroughly enjoyed the film and the climbing, one scene in particular left me wondering about the particular set of ethics that surround climbing in the outdoors.

Throughout the film, one climber was in pursuit of his illusive route to end all routes. He felt called to nature, called to the shorelines of northern California, knowing that somewhere amidst the rocky shore he would find the rock that had been bringing him back, time and time again.

He does finally find it – a beautiful, angular slab right at the shoreline. It is overhanging, untouched and ripe for a first ascent. The face is aesthetic and a beautiful route ensues…

…With the aid of several bolts.

As a climber myself, I will openly admit that I often frequent local bolted crags. However, I found myself struck by this climbers justification of his decision to bolt the route, stating that he could remove the bolts and virtually “leave no trace” on the face of this large slab.

When it comes down to it, I suppose the right thing was done by removing as much of a trace from the rock face as possible. However, the scars that were left behind on this face will never heal. The holes that were made to support this sport will be there forever, and the route never becomes “established.” Like trails, should we keep bolts so that future visitors of these crags are given the option outright of choosing the same path? It seems like the rock could end up looking like swiss cheese otherwise – full of holes.

What struck me the most was the fact that there are so many levels of “respect” for a rock in the mind of a climber. Our choices to boulder, trad climb, or sport climb are affected by the sense of proximity and connectedness that we feel while climbing. In the ethics of Leave No Trace, I know what I would do – but what happens when the damage is already done?

I would love to hear thoughts from other climbers on this!